Invicta Flies - Deer Hair Popper, page 2
Tying Instructions (continued):
Step Three- collar
and the first hackle fibers. It is helpful to place the stem of the front feather against but above the stem of the rear feather. Take a couple loose turns of thread with the feather stems about 30-45 degrees to the hook shank. Pull down on the thread while holding the feathers in place to tighten. Take a few more tight turns of thread in front of the first couple to secure, and continue wrapping forward to the front of the tie-in area. Now wrap back to halfway between here and the tie-in point of the collar feathers.
Wind the thread forward and create a smooth, sharply tapered "head." Whip finish the thread, clip it from the hook, and cement the wraps well. Allow some time for this to dry completely before moving on to the body.
For a different look, you can add a feather to the front of the collar, such as guinea hen, pheasant, or mallard flank, dyed to match the body. Keep this down to one or two wraps and the tips as close to even with the hackle fiber tips as possible. Do not substitute these feathers for the saddle hackle completely- use at least one to help support the softer body feathers. Additionally, on poppers, where we want the fuller collar, avoid very soft feathers like marabou, which will absorb more water and force the collar back into a non-moving part of the tail.
Step Four- body
Look closely at the photos above. Halfway along the bare shank you will see a black mark. This is where I'm going to add legs later. Once you start spinning the body, it gets harder to tell where this point is. A small mark with permanent marker will let you know when you've reached the place for tying in the legs.
Secure a strong thread for spinning immediately in front of the collar. I usually use 3/0 waxed monocord, but you can also use Kevlar thread or any of the other stronger threads. Be aware, though, that some threads for spinning are very thick...these won't break on you, but you really have to load up the deer hair to make up for the gaps the thick thread leaves. The waxed monocord, when the bobbin is spun, becomes quite thin, yet it doesn't cut through the hairs the way some fine diameter, strong threads will. Its drawback is that it will break if too much tension is applied.
For this fly, I'm going to build the body of deer hair by spinning it. Optionally, you can make a two-tone body by tying in one color on top, not letting it spin all the way around, and another color on the bottom. You can also stack different colors on top of each other to create circular patterns. A few other techniques you can experiment with: place two different colors together and use this as the "top" color, with a third for the belly (creates a mottled back); mix two colors thoroughly before spinning for a "peppered" look; use a combination of all of these for a specific color pattern, such as that found on frogs or various baitfish. Use you imagination and be as creative as you like. Here, however, I just want a simple body with a different color head- chartreuse and olive, seperated by a band of black.
Add a drop of head cement to the thread wraps. I like to apply the cement every three or four clumps. Does this help? I don't know for sure but it seems like it would and I've never had a bass bug fall apart. I figure if I'm going to spend quite a bit of time making a nice bass bug, I want it as durable as possible!
Spin another clump onto the shank in the same way. After two or three clumps, it will no longer be necessary to trim away the tips. Continue with additional clumps up to the tie-in point for the legs. Once there, take an extra turn of thread and definitely cement this so it stays in place while we do the legs.